Messing up a clean looking engine
From pcarworkshop
This article is on the final assembly of the 993 rebuld.
From the long block we first need to put the main top cover. As part of that there are to knock sensors, one for each side of the engine. They are attached to a bridge that spans across all pistons and sense vibrations not in synronization with the timing of the crankshaft
Notice the intakes hold down the air cover...and the engine starts to get covered up...
Here is an intake stack that attaches the heads to the varioram. They were quite gunged up....coated in both varnish from fuel and and oily layer....so I had to clean them up of course.. :)
Here is a close up of the port for a fuel injector...notice the crap at the bottom where the injector sits........*** more cleaning, **Sigh**
In goes the intake manifold stack...five to go!
I had all the fuel injectors cleaned and checked. Two were partially plugged and another had a wierd spray pattern. A little bit of TLC in the ultrasonic cleaner and they checked out good as new!
OK, all intakes and fuel injectors are on...
Next step..the wonderfull steering pump. Since I do not have the tool (nor wanted to make it) to hold the cam still when attaching it I took the front cam cover off and used the cam tool to hold the cam still while torquing down the attaching nuts...since the engine is so short it was not a problem.
Ok, now the fuel rails. The rail runs from the left side of the engine over to the right side. Each of the fuel injectors are attached to the rail with a small clip that holds them in place...don't forget the clips or there will be fuel all over the place.
Ok, a litle more clutter. You can see the SAI air pump, cruse control module, gas rails with injectors and the main wiring harness. Now it starting to look more cluttered!
I threw this one for a laugh..I thought someone would get a buzz from my homemade main seal tool. I machined an old pully to match my old seal, and used the old seal to push on the new one. The threaded rod is used to put pressure between the engine stand and the block...which allows the seal to be pushed in. Seem to work fine!
Isn't a RS flywheel beautifull? I am amazed on the weight difference between the DMF and the RSF.
Well, at the other end of the engine stuff is being put together. I had to buy a new catalytic convertor mount....the old one was broken off from all the vibration. New straps as well...why does't Porsche do these in stainless steel?
Exhaust system is next...use lots of antiseize so when the next guy in 10 years does a rebuild he will thank me....that might be me!
OK, most of the exhaust is in. Its nice on this engine stand because you can flip the engine over at will...makes those hard nuts to get to really easy. Maybe there is a market to have a jig to flip the entire car over...
Time to install the god-awfull bunch of spart plug wires...oh for individual coils on each spark plug...
you can see it getting busier..
Starting to look like a 993 engine again..
This is the flywheel position sensor..which needs a specified clearance. Good ol' feeler gauge works fine here!
More cleaning....I found the varioram intakes quite gunged up. The mass flow sensor was fine but the intakes were quite dirty. Another can of brake cleaner to the rescue...and another hour.
After cleaning..much better. These butterfly valves are good and large and the top on is the primary with the second one coming in close to full throttle. Mine worked fine so the manifold was ready to be installed.
WOW, its complete! It was a bit of a challenge to get all the vacuum lines in the right places since most of my tags had fallen off over the last three months. This is where my library of photos came in really handy!
Time to lift the finished creation off the stand and put the clutch on. I find it easier to put the clutch together while its off the stand...nothing to get in the way. I used a leveling bar and use both the front engine mount and the rear hoist hook to pick up the engine. Its a bit close on the intake manifold but it does clear.
Time for the RS clutch. The ring gear goes on first...its a tight fit and its keyed by the bolt pattern.
The clutch disk is nicely labelled and clear...apparently not all of them are.
Clutch disk is on and ready for the pressure plate. Note the disk alignment tool...
The RS pressure plate (and the DMF as well) uses two spacers, a spring like washer, a thrust plate and a snap ring to hold in the throwout bearing...unfortunately no one tells you that the next step is a pain...
The snap ring can only be put on under pressure so I had to pull out my trusty home made shop press to put pressurize the pressure plate to snap the ring in...it takes quite a bit of pressure to move these plates.
Final clutch assembly...tightening down the pressure plate. The trick is to work around the flywheel so the pressure plate is not twisted..
I always get a kick out of this procedure. You use a piece of duct tape to temporarily hold down the clutch fork until the tranmission is on, then insert the shift fork rod to hold it in place. I put in new bushings in the fork as well as new roller bearings...don't forget to pull the piece of tape out!
Ok, tranny is now attached to the engine. A few cleanup items (starter installation, shift fork installation, torquing the transmission/engine bolts, etc..) and then you are ready to install..
Links to Rebuild Tour
- Getting started, dropping the engine and superficial stripdown
- Checking the default timing and Cams
- Looking at the heads and the SAI passages
- Valve guides, valves and carbon
- Further Dissassembly
- Exploring the SAI passages
- Cleaning and getting ready to put it all together again
- Rods and last minute checks before putting the case together
- Sealing the case (or tomb)
- Putting the pistons/cylinders back
- Camshaft timing Part I
- Camshaft timing Part II
- Messing up a clean looking engine
- Not quite there
- Cranking it up
